Heading down the coast towards Bayonne, we met a woman who, on retiring at 65, stumbled across a book about the EuroVelo 6 cycling route — from France to Romania along the Loire and Danube rivers.
She had never ridden a bicycle before — not so much as a leisurely spin since her youth — but the photos captivated her and she decided this was something she couldn't let pass. She researched bikes and camping gear, read everything she could about cycle touring, and gradually prepared herself — mentally and physically — for an adventure she completed the previous summer over the course of three months.
Now, with an always-positive outlook, she's already wondering what her next expedition will be. She's not just found a new hobby — she's found a new way to travel and see the world.
Arriving in Bayonne by bike
Bayonne was the last French city of our winter tour through France — the final stop before crossing into Spain and entering Navarre. We arrived planning to explore the whole area, but eventually realised what we actually needed was rest.
Instead of visiting Biarritz and the surrounding villages, we chose to cook a quiet meal at our host's place and take a relaxed wander through the city — a stroll along the river, getting lost in the old town.
Pedalling towards the Pyrenees
After a day's rest — which our backsides were very grateful for — we were full of energy and ready to take on the Pyrenean climbs.
Ahead of us lay the first stretch of our journey we'd actually sat down and planned, because we had real doubts about our ability to get over the mountains with such heavy loads. In the end it took us over the passes of Otxondo and Velate.
After weeks of flat riding — albeit into a headwind — the excitement built as the mountains appeared on the horizon and we felt the first slopes under our legs, climbing from sea level.
Before reaching the Spanish border at Dantxarinea, we stopped in a tiny French village full of charm: Ainhoa. Our last rest before leaving France behind and heading into the Navarrese Pyrenees.
Au revoir la France!
