The Loop, the circular motorbike route through central Laos, was a bit of a contradictory experience for us. The scenery was stunning and the adventure worth having — but riding those roads on a rattling clunker of a bike with two people on board was not a good idea.
For context: the Loop is a roughly 3–4 day motorbike circuit that usually starts and ends in Tha Khaek, looping through limestone karst country, hot springs, dam reservoirs, sleepy villages and the jaw-dropping Konglor Cave. Most travellers rent a little semi-automatic in town and go anticlockwise. It's one of the classic things to do in Laos, which is exactly why it's worth being honest about what works and what doesn't.
If I had to do it again I probably wouldn't do the full Loop by motorbike. Instead I'd take one of the songthaews to the Konglor Cave and spend a night in Ban Natane, then head straight on to Vientiane from there without backtracking to Tha Khaek.
Obviously we'd have missed all the other caves, views, landscapes and villages — but also all the suffering on roads that barely deserve the name. For considerably less money we could have gone straight to the Loop's star attraction and enjoyed it all the more without the accumulated exhaustion.
Arriving at Konglor Cave by motorbike
So should I do the Loop or not?
How many of you are there? If you're going solo, renting a motorbike is your only real option — leave your main pack somewhere safe and travel light. You'll enjoy it and the roads will be more manageable.
If there are two of you and you're on a tight budget, I'd recommend taking public transport to Konglor and skipping the motorbike rental altogether. You'll find a better use for the money you save on the hire and maintenance.
If, on the other hand, you have a bigger budget, get one motorbike each. In that case I'd absolutely recommend it — same as for a solo rider — with the added bonus that if one of you gets a puncture or a breakdown, the other can ride ahead for help.
If money is no object, I'd strongly suggest hiring a trail bike rather than one of those little Chinese buzzbombs. You'll thank yourself for it.
What they call a road
Right, I'm convinced — what should I pack?
Travel as light as possible — a small bag you can strap to the bike and keep reasonably fixed. Your kit should include at least the following:
- A torch, as powerful as possible — for the caves, and as a precaution if you're caught out after dark. Don't expect street lights.
- Socks. Several pairs and thick ones if possible; it gets cold at night.
- Warm layers. Something windproof, plus long-sleeved shirts, jumpers or thermal base layers — both for riding and for the nights.
- Snacks. Save some for the rougher stretches, when you'll need the energy most.
Plenty of people recommend carrying fuel bottles, water, sleeping bags… I don't think the extra weight is worth it. You can buy fuel in villages every few kilometres, and water almost as frequently.
These roadside stalls serve as petrol stations on secondary roads
A sleeping bag is also unnecessary in my opinion — the warm layers you're already bringing should be enough. I had just a few T-shirts and a couple of thermal tops and it was more than sufficient.
Frequently asked questions
How long does the Loop in Laos take?
Three to four days is the comfortable pace, with overnight stops along the way and a full half-day at Konglor Cave. You can rush it in two days, but the roads are slow and rough — you'll spend the whole time staring at potholes instead of the scenery.
Where does the Loop start and finish?
The classic loop starts and ends in Tha Khaek, where the motorbike rental shops are. The big highlight, Konglor Cave, sits roughly opposite Tha Khaek on the circuit — which is exactly why, if money is tight, you can skip the bike and reach the cave directly by public transport.
Do I need a motorbike licence or much riding experience?
The bikes are small semi-automatics and rental shops rarely ask for anything. That said, the surfaces range from decent tarmac to loose gravel and dirt, often in the rain — so it's not the place to learn to ride. If you're a complete beginner, going two-up on one bike is asking for trouble. Take it slow, and travel insurance that actually covers motorbikes is a sensible idea.
Is the Loop worth doing?
The landscapes absolutely are. Whether the riding is worth it depends on your setup: solo or one bike each, on a half-decent machine, it's a brilliant adventure. Two heavy people on one tired buzzbomb on those roads — less so. If in doubt, do the lighter version straight to Konglor.
How much does the Loop cost?
The big variables are the bike hire, fuel and a few nights of cheap guesthouses — all modest by Western standards. For a fuller picture of what we spent moving around the country, see our Laos spending breakdown.
Other posts about the Loop you might find useful:
- Starting the Loop through central Laos.
- Continuing the Loop to Konglor Cave.
- The Konglor Cave.
- Homestay in Ban Natane.
Good luck and enjoy the adventure!
